The culinary secret of Fresno is hidden near your placemark. It is in the "Santa Fe Hotel." There is no sign. You enter the bar and walk past the pool tables. At the end is a door. Beyond that door is a huge room with a eighty or so picnic-style tables. Gathered here are Basque-heritage families enjoying great food served on heaping platters. Think of a Roman Feast with a considerably less glamour. Open 5-9 Tuesday through Sunday. Check it out, but only if you are hungry.