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Duna-Ipoly National Park
Size of protected area: Protected to a greater extent 16.119 hectares out of 60.314 hectares protected area.
Location: The four main parts of the area comprise of the Börzsöny mountain, Visegrádi mountains, small parts of the left bank of the river Ipoly, and certain parts of the Szentendre Island and that of the left bank of the river Danube.
Visiting: The majority of the areas can be visited without restrictions, but there are also strictly protected parts and parts which are not open to the public. More information is available at the centre of the national park (Budapest, II. Hüvösvölgyi út 52.)
The Dunakanyar (the Danube bend) and vicinity is one of the most well-known part of Hungary, rich in historical relics and in natural assets. The 350 thousand year old bone relics of Homo paleohungaricus found in Vértesszölös are significant even in international terms. From later eras, besides plenteous finds from the Stone Age, series of relics referring to the presence of Scythians, Celts, Romans, Avars and Slavs have been excavated. Esztergom was the first centre of Hungarian sataehood and Christianity, Saint Stephen was not only born here but also lived and died here. The Rennaisance palace in Visegrád is reminiscent of the memories of King Mathias. The Pilis- Visegrádi mountains were the centre of the only Hungarian order, the Pauline order for centuries. Almost all of the canyons, peaks, caves of the mountains are connected with legends, similarly to the Börzsöny mountains towering on the other side of the Danube. The Börzsöny mountains with steep ranges and vast continuous forests are reminiscent of the Charpathian mountains.
Danube bend & Börzsöny mtns from right
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The outstanding natural assets of the Dunakanyar and vicinity were basically formed as a result of three factors:
From the point of view of botanical and zoological range of species, the area lies on the boundaray of lowland, alpine, and medium-height mountains (according to certain theories several lowland plant species spreaded to the south from here). Therefore flatland, as well as medium-height mountain associations and species can be found in its flora nad fauna. The mosaic of these provides chances for survival for dosens of valuable species. The other powerful factor is the extremely varied superficial forms of mountains and riverbanks, which - in small, closed habitats - can provide essential conditions for communities accomodated to them. Finally, because of these characteristic steep canyons and mountain sides, small hidden marshes, the area is defended also from uninitiated intruders, from people who take nature as prey.
Besides all these, the most captivating aspect of the region – also for visitors spending only a short time here – is the amazing sight of the Dunakanyar, this unique landscape, which enframes the assets that can be found here.
1. The Pilis-Visegrádi Mountains. Protected to a greater extent 6251 hectares out of 25.370 hectare protected area. It can be visited without restrictions, but only tourist paths can be walked on in the highly protected areas.
The mountains encircled by the Dunakanyar are generally referred to as Pilis, although all of its most well known parts (the Dobogókő, the Prédikálószék, the Vadálló-kövek, the Rám-szakadék etc.) belong to the Visegrádi mountains in terms of historical geology – and as a result ecologically, too.
The Pilis and the Visegrádi mountains are divided by the valley of the streams Dera and Szentlélek, which go along the line connecting Pomáz and Esztergomb. Strictly taken, the area lying to the southeast of this line is the Pilis Mountains.
It was shaped in the Triassic epoch. The mountains consisting of sedimentary rock – limestone and dolomite – were broken into vast blocks by short but impetuous movements of the earth in the glacial period. That is why the mountains are characterized by rocky ridges, steep and bare mountain-sides, deep, narrow canyons (Holdvilág-árok, Szurdok). At the same time there are also gentle slopes and caves, which are typical of limestone mountains. There are more than two hundred caves in the Pilis, out of which twelve are hightly protected. The most well-known caves of the Pilis are the Leány- and Legény caves opening next to each other in the side of The Csévi-szirtek, the Ördöglyuk and the Sátorkőpusztai cave in the Nagy Strázsa-mountain.
The average temperature of the area is higher than that of the Visegrádi mountains, or the Börzsöny. The average rainfall is also less, in addition, it infiltrates right into the depth and therefore, the area is dry, warm, almost sub-Mediterranean during the greater part of the year.
This is what influences the character of the flor a emerged in the mountains. The Pilis has been inhabited for thousands of years and the wood of the forests was continuously used by man living here. In the place of forests, large meadows and hayfields came into being, with such valuable plant species as the pennycress (Thlaspi montanum) or the feather-grass (Stipa pennata). The areas with thin tilth are covered by rock-lawns, where plants protected to a greater extent live like the fennel (Ferula sadlerana), the seseli sp. (Seseli leucospermum) and the ragwort (Sempervivum marmoreum). Next to the rocky lawns, mahaleb cherry karst groves stretch, with lizard orchid (Himantoglossum hircinum) and orchid species at the level of the lawn. The pasque flower (Pulsatilla nigricans) and several types of orchids (military, toothed orchid / Orchis tridentate/, elder-flowedred orchis /Dactylorhiza sambucina/, marsh orchid /Dactylorhiza incarnata/ etc.) bloom at the edge and at the clearings of the basiphilous oaks mixed with manna ash.
According to zonation, the majority of the area is covered with Turkey oak forests with common privet, hawthorn on the shrub stratum, and with cowslip (Primula veris) and several species of the orchids on the ground stratum. There are hornbeam oak forests over the Turkey oak areas, with purple corydalis (Corydalis cava), the rue-leaved isopyrum (Isopyrum thalictroides) in the underwood - and the real specialty the moor grass sp. (Sesleria sadleriana) (this area is the western boundary of the hare's tail grass associations). Going further up it is the beeches that follow, where the monkshood (Aconitum moldavicum) blooms. Still further up often only the white, bare, rocky summit can be found (the mountains were named after this: 'pilis' means the tonsure, the bold top of the head of monks in Slovakian language).
Pilis top.
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In terms of geology, the Visegrádi mountains are related to the Börzsöny, as they consist of andesite of volcanic origin from the Miocene. The crater could have been somewhere in the triangle of Dobogókö, Dömös, Pilisszentlászló. The huge stones came about during later volcanic activities: this is how the Prédikálószék and the Vadálló-kövek were shaped (there is a stunning view from any of these stones, just like from Dobogókő). The morphology of the mountains is also different from that of the Pilis side: there are less wild broken off parts and deep canyons (although the most beautiful and most dangerous canyon, the Rám-szakadék happens to be here), there are merely sixteen, just smaller caves around here. However, in terms of interesting formations, the Visegrádi mountains do not fall behind their counterpart: amazing, bizarre formations can often be found made from free andesite saliences by the wind and the rain (in the Rám-szakadék, at the stones mentioned earlier, on the Kő-hegy etc.). The Visegrádi mountains are slightly rainier and the average temperature is also a little lower. There are more watercourses, the falling rain creates larger and smaller lakelets in the hollows of the volcanic rock – they are rather valuable habitats in term of ecology. The definitive pattern of zonal forests is not significantly different from that of the Pilis. Turkey oak, hornbeam-oak and beech associations follow each other towards the peaks of the mountains. However 'the pilis' with a scarce tilth on the top is missing from the Visegrádi mountains. The mahaleb cherry is missing from the scrub forests on the exposed side, while the warmer sides are dominated with calciphobic oaks. The scrub forests are interrupted by continuous steppe-meadow associations at less favourable places.
In terms of the fauna there are not differences – except for a few arthropedals – between the two areas. A very beautiful spider species the black and red ladybird spider (Eresus cinnabarinus), the rather rare matriarchal katydid (Saga pedo) and the endemic (Isophya costata) are worth mentioning, but the butterfly fauna of the area is also very rich.
Rich flora and fauna can be found in the habitats of streams, lakelets, small marshes (e.g. in the vicinity of the Kerek lake in the Búbánat valley). It is worth mentioning the marsh helleborine (Epipactis palustris) and themarsh thistle (Cirsium sp.) out of the flora and the stone crayfish, the loach, the common frog (Rana temporaria), the dice- and the grass snake, the snake-eyed skink out of the fauna. The most precious members of the avifauna are the rock bunting (Emberiza cia), the raven, the dipper. Out of the rare birds of prey the saker falcon, the booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), the black kite (Milvus migrans), the short-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and the honey buzzard (Pernis apivorus) nest here. Out of the mammals it is worth mentioning a few bat species, the wild cat (Felis sylvestris), and the lynx is also said to have settled here.
The Pilis is one of the richest parts of the country from the point of view of cultural history. Here is some information just to draw attention: relics from the Stone Age were excavated near Piliszántó (the Pilisszántó culture), Pilismarót and Csobánka.. Scythian and Celtic relics, earthwork forts can be found e.g. in the fields of Pomáz. Later a network of roads, towers, military quarters and villas were built by the Roman garrisons. According to certain sources, the Hun capital of Attila was located here, but other kings like Géza, Saint Stephan, II. Béla, IV Béla, Károly Róbert, and Mathias left plenteous relics here, which was considered to be the centre of the country. The ethnographical and historical relics of the villages and towns in and around the mountains belong to the most precious ones of Hungary.
2. Along the river Ipoly. Area: 1400 hectars. Except for some highly protected areas it can be visited without restrictions.
The river Ipoly is a small branch of the Danube on the left side, its bed constitutes the northern border of the country from Szob as far as Ipolytarnóc. As a result it still has a flood area in its precious, almost natural condition, because a boundary river could not be controlled, as any changes made to its bed would have created legal problems internationally. There are wide areas almost in their natural condition like a string of beads along the Ipoly, which are divided by less valuable areas at several places.
At the widening areas the bank of the river is hardly higher than the level of the water, therefore these areas are regularly flooded by the river creating ideal living conditions for the associations attached to water. The meandering river with small dead branches is accompanied by bigger and smaller swampy, marshy areas, wet meadows, fresh poplars, willow trees and alder fenwood patches.
Ipoly river
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The yellow water-lily, the water-lily (Nymphaea sp) bloom in the river, several club-rush (Schoenoplectus sp) and sedge (Carex sp) species grow near the banks, the protected orchid and iris species live in the wet meadows. Almost all of the frog species have a habitat in the wet areas which are often covered by water even in the summer. The warty newt (Triturus cristatus) is a common sight here. Not only the white storks from the neighboring villages come to feed here, but the black stork (Ciconia nigra) hatching at the foot of the Börzsöny as well. Moreover, great white herons, common herons, bitterns (Botaurus stellaris) feed here, as well as sandpipers and other littoral birds search there. Several duck species come to feed in the wet meadows, the corncrake (Crex crex) lives at quieter parts, but it is given away by the sound it makes. The real specialty is the next grade in the chain of food, since the birds of prey from the Börzsöny and other nearby mountains come here to prey: the white-tailed eagle (Heliaetus albicilla ), the imperial eagle (Aquila heliaca) and from time to time the osprey (Pandion heliaetus) – even if they are not everyday sights, it is not a sensation to see them. The races of the otter can often be spotted on the riverbank, even the weather-fish and the spined loach are said to live in the shallow, swampy parts. The most beautiful parts of the river are found between Ipolyszög and Hont, as well as Vámosmikola and Szob.
The specialty of the protected area is, that intact sandy lawns stretch just a few kilometers from the Ipoly between Dejtár and Drégelypalánk. The Honti canyon is quite well known, which was once formed by the Ipoly. Walking along the river millions of years of the geological history of the Earth can be traced at the bottom and the side of the valley.
3. The Börzöny mountains. 2166 hectares are protected to a greater extent out of the 18.028 hectare protected area. Except for the valleys Pogány and Rózsás the national park can be visited without restrictions. In the highgly protected parts only tourist paths can be used.
The Börzsöny is still one of the closest and the most difficult of access in Hungary. There are not any proper roads to the center of the mountains, but a narrow-gauge railway can take visitors to the 'skirt' of the mountains from a few directions, which for that matter is a memorable experience. Further on one has to walk and it will take quite an effort, too. The mountains were formed in the tertiary period (Miocene) as a result of volcanic activities. Their base rock is andesite and andesite tuff. Reminiscent of the Carpathians, they are made up of high, sharp ridges, steep mountainsides, deep, narrow valleys. The central part, a collapsed crater, consists of peaks and ridges (the Csóványos, the Nagy Hideg mountain, Nagy Inóc, Magas Tax) provide stunning views. There are strangely shaped andesite formations, huge stones, fields of stones, petrified surface-flows of lava everywhere in the whole area of the mountains.
Börzsöny mountains
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The Börzsöny is one of the coldest and rainiest areas of Hungary. There are more then three hundred springs in the mountains, out of the brooks the Börzsöny and the Kemence are the most abounding in water. Therefore the altitude-zones start at lower levels than usual. Mainly hornbeam-oak forests, Austrian/Turkey oak-oak, mountain beeches constitute their vast forests. Several protected, characteristically mountainous and alpine plants found favourable habitats in the forests and clearings rusty cliff fern /Woodsia/ and hard shield-fern /Phyllitis scolopendrium/, alpine rose, monkshood /Aconitum variegatum/, hellebore, oxlip /Primula elatior/, coralwort /Dentaria bulbifera/ etc). The southern skirt and the sides with southeastern exposure of the mountains are occupied by thermophile associations, oak forests, manna ash associations, thermophile rocky lawns often with rare, protected plant species also known from the Alföld.
The abundance of areas of wet, humid microclimate, the easily warming up southeastern steep slopes and the undisturbed, continuous forests provide a rather valuable fauna. Besides the rich amphibian and reptile fauna of the Börzsöny, about a hundred bird species nest here (the raven, the hazel-grouse, the black woodpecker and the white-backed woodpecker /Dendrocopos leucotos /etc.). Predatory animals represent an outstanding asset: the imperial eagle and lesser spotted eagle, the saker falcon, the short-toed eagle, the eagle/stock owl (Bubo bubo) nest in the quiet, hidden parts of the mountains. The expansive forests provide a satisfactory habitat for mammals which do not stand any disturbances: the wild cat, the beech marten and the pine-marten are still common.
The area is also significant in terms of cultural history. There are more than twenty ruins of fortresses in the area (the famous fortress of Drégely is one of them). The remains of earthwork forts have been found at several places, which are reminiscent of even earlier times. There is a beautiful 12th century church from the Arpadian age in Nagybörzsöny. There is a still active Pauline monastery from the 14th century in Márianosztra at the famous place of pilgrimage. The characteristic architecture of the 'palócok' living around here are shown at the village museums at Kemence and Berneceabaráti. Traces of an ancient foundry and iron mine can be seen near Királyrét. Last but not least the narrow-gauge railways represent a speciality of technical history, of which more and more are restored.
4. The Szentendre Island and the left bank of the Danube. Area: about 7000 hectares. They can be visited without restrictions, except for a few highly protected places in the Szentendre Island.
These areas are rather disturbed since just a few kilometers from Budapest, they are favourite places of excursion and recreation. Therefore, there are only patches of really untouched, undisturbed areas, generally in strips along the river Danube. Besides protecting these, the national park also protects the unique landscape and relics of history.
There are ferries to the island at several places for cyclists, a bridge at Tahitótfalu and a ferry at Vác for motorists. The quality of the environment of the island is an important issue in all respects, because its deep-bore wells are the basis of water supply for the whole of North-Pest. As a result, the environment including the little villages (Kisoroszi, Surány, Szigetmonostor, Horány) is cleaner, more orderly than the national average. There are cottages with characteristic elements of traditional architecture, little peaceful streets, churches in these villages.
Natural environs reminiscent of the original, natural conditions here can only be found in patches, but some of these are rather precious. The protected areas can be divided in to two main parts: the wet associations of river banks and the dry lawn associations of the interior of the island.
The wet areas – strips along the bank, peninsulas, little nearby islets, puddles, very short dead branches of the Danube, small sandbanks – are located mainly north of the road connecting Thitótfalu and the ferry at Vác and at the southern part of the island off Szentendre. Broom-willow-poplar groves, willows in stagnant water constitute larger and smaller patches at these areas. The avifauna of the area is rather rich, more than fifty species nest on the island. Littoral birds, ducks, cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo), common herons, great white herons, the kingfisher are quite common. Guests from the North (mergansers (Mergus sp) and several species of the diving ducks populate the bank.
The real natural assets of the island are the sandy patches of the inner parts, the sandy puszta lawns reminiscent of the pusztas in the Alföld. Unfortunately these areas diminish because of building up, therefore the majority of them are strictly protected and can be walked over only on dirt-roads. Such areas can be found in the north of the island at the altitude of the Kecskés island, and in the south, north of Surány and at the south end of the island. These dry lawns with feather-grass – sometimes laid out in depth with sand hills – hide such rarities as the pink (Dianthus pontederae), the green-winged orchid (Orchis morio), the mouse garlic, the pasque flower (Pulsatilla nigricans), the heath-rose (Fumana procumbens) and the meadow saffron (Colchicum arenarium) and the milkvetch (Astragalus) protected to a greater extent.
Near Szentendre (more pics)
At the left bank of the Danube it is best to cycle to look at it, as there is a well built bicycle path all along the river from Dunakeszi to Szob. In the narrow strip – wider at places – the vegetation is similar to that of the Szentendre Island (willow-poplar groves, smaller broom-willow and alder patches, puddly willows of abandoned construction pits). There are peninsulas, smaller islands in the strip along the river often covered with very dense forest. With a bit of luck iris or snowflake (Leucojum vernum) can also be spotted. The avifauna of the area is similar to that of listed at the Szentendre Island. In Vác (in the Váci-liget) it is worth walking along on the educational path maintained by the Göncöl Fund, where associations and species of flood areas can be studied by the aid of notice-boards.
There is not enough space here just to list the relics of cultural history of the area. It is characterized by such gems packed with historical monuments like Szentendre, Visegrád, Vác, Nagymaros – relics from the Roman age, Serb cemetery, Renaissance ruins of palace, catholic and orthodox churches, little Mediterranean streets, masterpieces of traditional architecture. FOEK pages
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Edited by syzygy (11/04/08 02:43 AM)
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