The Chicago River is the seed from which the city of Chicago grew. Much of the layout of the city is based on the river and the many bridges that span it. My hotel is near the mouth of the river where it meets Lake Michigan. Since I wanted to explore the city it seemed that starting with the river made sense.

Walking from the hotel toward the lake, I saw a large ship just beyond the bridge of Lakeshore drive. Since the ship was taller than the bridge, it seemed that this must be a drawbridge, and waiting until 11am proved this to be so--the alarm sounded, the bridge opened, and the ship drew near!


Odyssey II passing the Lakeshore bridge with traffic halted
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Most interestingly, the Odyssey II was not alone. Though I had not noticed them in the distance, it quickly became clear that there were a dozen or more sailboats behind the large ship. The Odyssey II docked alongside the Sheraton, but the sailboats came closer and halted just short of the Columbus Street bridge. Though the boats were small and low to the water, their masts were taller than the bridge so they could not pass beneath the closed span.


Sailboats awaiting opening of the Columbus Street bridge
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Aha! I realized what was happening--a slow block-by-block regatta as these boats sailed the river through and beyond Chicago. Soon the Columbus Street bridge warning bells sounded, cars and pedestrians cleared the area, and then the bridge opened to allow the boats safe passage.


Columbus Street bridge begins to open with Sheraton behind it
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Bridge fully open with my 28th floor hotel room window in view above bridge centerline
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Reverse view, from Sheraton down toward boats (*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

The Helix drew-up close beside me and her crew chatted with me as they awaited the bridge tenders to relocate to Michigan Avenue. They and the others are moving their boats inland for the winter. Some for storage, others for repair.

"How many bridges?" I ask. Twenty-three is the skipper's reply.

"How long does it take?" was my next question. Three hours he calls back.

Sounds like a perfect introduction to Chicago, so I decided then and there to walk along the beside these boats as they made their way through the City.


Helix heads for Michigan Street bridge with Wrigley building at right
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Helix set off for the Michigan Street bridge. I headed that way too, passing a variety of Chicago attractions along the way.


Imaginitave chair. Perhaps the work of Chigao's famous Mr. Imagination?
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Welcoming restaurant. "Please come in and take a seat" with creative calligraphy. Do they speak Russian here?Can they spell it?
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

I waved to the crew of this boat but did not speak to the first mate.


Captain and First Mate waiting for Michigan Street bridge to open
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Nearing the Michigan street bridge I noticed the tour boat Chicago's First Lady and thought of the Dave Mathews Band...


Open deck tour boat "Chicago's First Lady" with Columbus Street bridge in distance
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Thinking about the Dave Matthews Band
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

...and contemplated what appears to be a monument to the Pomme Frite.


Super-sized French Fry shrine with Wrigley Chewing Gum building in the background
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

The next bridge is Wabash Avenue. The boats are huddled here between the Michigan Street bridge in the background and the Wabash Avenue bridge located to the right of our viewpoint.


Just past Michigan Street bridge and the Equitable building(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Looking the other way, toward the opening Wabash Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Gifted lyricist Paul Simon wrote the song "One Man's Ceiling Is Another Man's Floor" to point out a basic fact of life. That truism applies to bridges as well. Every bridge open to tall-masted sailboats is closed to cars, trucks, pedestrians, and other traffic.


Automotive view of the open Wabash Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

The North Shore between Wabash and State Streets is the home of IBM Plaza, the last American building designed by the great Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. After a short wait, the regatta continued under the opening State Street bridge.


State Street bridge and passing boats from IBM Plaza(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Here are the boats waiting for the Dearborn Street bridge to rise. The Marina City towers are just to the north of these boats. Marina City is is a Chicago landmark and the towers are prominent in the opening credits of Television's The Bob Newhart Show.


Crew of Helix standing at ease
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Marina City behind clanging warning bell, Ding Ding Ding Ding...(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Dearborn Street bridge begins opens for waiting boats. Note mast at lower left and Westin Chicago River North just behind
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Past the Dearborn Street bridge and waiting at Clark Street(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Soon the Clark Street bridge rises, allowing the sailors to pass toward La Salle Drive.


Passing Dearborn with Clark Street bridge opening for watercraft(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Boats transiting Clark Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Clark Street bridge in fully opened position(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Waiting for the La Salle Drive bridge to open.


Passing time as the La Salle Street bridge is made ready(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


La Salle Drive bridge and waiting boats seen through open Clark Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Friendly Chicago DOT employee that I spoke with twice(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


The boats "swam", I walked, and the DOT people drove between bridges.(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Partially open La Salle Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

The longest delays (other than Lakeshore Drive, which opens at 11am) are at Wells Street and at Lake Sreet, both of which have a elevated subway train in addition to pedestrian and automobile traffic. Once the cars and people are clear, they wait for the next trains to pass, and then open the bridge, as seen here at Wells Street.


Awaiting the opening of the Wells Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Young mariner signals to shore(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Train crossing othewise empty bridge at Wells Street. Marina Towers in background
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


The bridge begins to lift as the train clears the span...
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


...and the boats start through before the bridge is fully raised
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Eager captains approach the still-opening Wells Street bridge(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Wells Street bridge fully open with parade of masts(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Despite the quick start, the boats once again must idle with the bridge crew closes the previous bridge, drives to the next one, and then opens it. Here the boats are waiting at Franklin Street for the bridge to be opened.


Hurry up and wait, just like the real Navy
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Franklin Street bridge and passing boats(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Tilted section of Franklin Street bridge beside vertical wall of control tower
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Franklin Street bridge closes with boats and Boeing building beyond(*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

This is the control tower for the Franklin Street bridge. Inside it is the magic that makes the bridges open and close...


Clanging bell and STOP sign at Franklin Street control tower(*) Building on left in background is 333 Wacker Drive
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

...the magic is revealed--just as in Chicagoan L. Frank Baum's Wizard of Oz--to be a man!


The man who opens and closes the bridges of the Chicago River. Nice guy! (*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Lake Street, like Wells, has train tracks on top of the truss structure. In this instance there were also two 'dead' cars on the western span, parked right at the middle of the bridge. Here is the solution reached after considerable walkie-talkie work between the Chicago DOT people, the boaters, the construction crew below the bridge, and the Elevated railway timetable:


El crossing bridge above dead cars while boats wait
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Clear half of bridge opens with obstructed half unmoved
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Sidewalk view of half-open Lake Street bridge
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


The regatta continues along the eastern half of the river
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Transiting Washington Street bridge with Randolph Street bridge still closing. Lake Street bridge is the third one in the distance.


Passing Washington Street and the Chicago Civic Opera
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Civic Opera (*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

The Madison Street bridge control house was the most ornate of all.


Control facility used for a few minutes three times per week
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Here is the Monroe Street bridge openng for the oncoming floatilla.


Monroe Street bridge opens for approaching boats
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

It was unclear why the Adams Street bridge was only opened the eastern section.


Passing Adams Street "on the left"
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Left span aimed skyward in fully raised position
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Half-span was also raised at Jackson Street, but this time the reason was clear--the western span was loaded with Chicago DOT people and a vehicle!


Eastern half of Jackson Street bridge begins to open
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


DOT staff conducting close inspection
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Waiting again, this time for the Van Buren Street bridge.


The wait here at Van Buren Street was a lengthy one
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

It was a much greater distance to the Roosevelt Road Bridge. I just made it there as the bridge began to raise.


The very large Roosevelt Road bridge begins to rise
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Boats passing Roosevelt road with Aon Tower in distance at right
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

My final signting of the boats as they pass two railroad bridges, the closer always opened and the farther opened just for them. This is where they sailed off toward the afternoon sun and their destinations on some further shore.


The boats sail away into the afternoon sun
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.


Closer view of an opened heavy-rail bridge. (*)
Seer photo, Copyright (C) 2004.

Just as imagined, following these boats was the perfect way to meet the city of Chicago.

(*) Starred images were taken three days later and show the identical progress of a second, larger group of boats making the same trip. Revisiting the 'regatta' allowed me to look up at the hotel and down at the river, be on both sides of the river, position both ahead of and behind the boats, be there for the opening and closing of bridges, and importantly, afforded time to meet and speak with a few City of Chiacgo Department of Transportation staff, all of whom were professional, helpful, and cheerful.